Kawasaki 440 service manual

Jet-Ski Manuals. Motorcycle, Scooter Manuals. Mower Manuals. Power Tool Manuals. Outboard Manuals. Snowmobile Manuals. Tractor Manuals. Utility Vehicle Manuals. Feel inside the carburetor bore and turn the adjusting sleeve until the cutout portion of the throttle valve is flush with the inside of the carburetor bore. Turn the adjusting sleeve counterclockwise several additional turns to position the backside of the throttle valve flush with the carburetor bore Figure NOTE: The additional turns on the adjusting sleeve should position the throttle valve flush with or slightly above the carburetor bore.

If any part of the throttle slide protrudes into the carburetor bore, turn adjusting sleeve until throttle slide is flush. Rotate the throttle stop screw Figure 29 counterclockwise until the tip is flush with inside of carburetor bore. Remove rubber band clamp from handlebar and allow throttle to return to idle position. Turn in throttle stop screw until tip just contacts throttle slide valve. Turn in stop screw 2 additional turns for a preliminary idle setting.

Slowly operate throttle lever on handlebar and observe that throttle valve begins to rise. On models with 2 carburetors, ensure that throttle valves move an equal amount together. Readjust throttle cables if necessary. Slowly turn in pilot air screw until light seating is felt.

Do not force it or the air screw may be damaged. Back out the pilot air screw number of turns specified in Table 5. Install air intake silencer and start engine. Warm up engine to operating temperature and. Adjust throttle stop screw as necessary for specified idle speed. On 2 carburetor models ensure that both throttle stop screws are adjusted an equal amount. NOTE: Do not use pilot air screws to attempt to set engine idle speed.

Pilot air screws must be set as specified in Table 5. Perform Mikuni Carburetor Ad;uslment and Synchronization to obtain proper preliminary adjustments. Refer to Figure 31 for this procedure. Raise and support the rear of the snowmobile so track is clear of the ground. Start the engine. Bind and wedge the throttle lever to maintain engine speed at 4, rpm Figure Open the air flow control of air flow meter and place the meter over right carburetor throat.

The tube on meter must be vertical. Slowly close the air flow control until float in tube aligns with a graduated mark on tube. Without changing th eadjustment of the air flow control, place the air flow meter on the left carburetor.

If the carburetors are equal, no adjustment is necessary. If adjustment is necessary, loosen the jam nut on the carburetor with the lowest float level and turn the adjusting sleeve until the float level matches that of the other carburetor. Return the engine to idle and repeat Steps 3, 4, and 5. Ad just the throttle stop screws as necessary for a balanced idle.

Mikuni Carburetor Main Jet Selection. Because temperature and altitude affect the air density, each snowmobile owner will have to perform the following trial and error method of jet selection to obtain peak engine. Operate the machine at wide open throttle for several minutes. If peak rpm cannot be achieved or the engine appears to be laboring, the main iet needs to be changed.

Make another trial run and shut off the ignition while the throttle is still wide open. Examine the exhaust and spark plugs to determine if the mixture is too rich or too lean.

The mixture is too rich if exhaust manifold or spark plug insulator is dark brown or black. Refer to Spark Plugs in this chapter.

Decrease the iet size if the mixture is too rich. Use soap and water to thoroughly clean the exterior of your snowmobile. Use a hose to remove rocks, dirt and debris from the track area. Clean all dirt and dehris from the hood and console areas.

Be sure you allow sufficient time for all components to dry. Use a good automotive type cleaner wax and polish the hood, pan and tunnel. Use a suitable type of upholstery cleaner on the seat.

Touch up any scratched or bare metal parts with paint. Paint or oil the skis to prevent rust. Drain the fuel tank. Start the engine and run it at idle to hum off all fuel left in the carburetor. Check the fuel filter and replace it if it is contaminated. Wrap up carburetor s and intake manifold in plastic and tape securely Figure NOTE: Change jet sizes one increment at a time and lest after each change to obtain best results.

If the manifold or spark plug insulator is a very light color, the mixture is too lean. Correct by increasing jet size. If operation improves, continue increasing jet size until maximum performance is achieved. If operation gets worse,. The off season is also an excellent time to perform any maintenance and repair tasks that are necessary.

Remove the spark plugs and add a teaspoon of Arctic Cat Engine Preserver to each cylinder. Pull the engine over several times with the starter rope to spread the oil over the cylinder walls. Replace the spark plugs. Change the chaincase oil. Raise the rear of snowmobile off the ground. Loosen the track adjusting screws to remove any tension on the track.

Carefully examine all components and assemblies. Make a note of immediate and future maintenance and repair items and order the. Check and tighten all nuts and bolts. Cover the snowmobile and store it inside if possible. Refer to Chapter One. Check the throttle and brake controls for proper operation and adjust them if necessary.

Adjust the track tension. Familiarize yourself with all safety and operating instructions. Completely remove grease from the drive and driven sheaves and then clean them with an acetone type cleaner. Install the drive belt. Check that all lights and switches operate properly. Replace any burned out bulbs. Start out slowly on short rides until you are sure your machine is operating correctly and is dependable. Diagnosing snowmobile ills is relatively simple if you use orderly procedures and keep a few basic principles in mind.

Never assume anything. Do not overlook the obvious. If you are riding along and the snowmobile suddenly quits, check the easiest most accessible problem spots first. Is there gasoline in the tank? Has a spark plug wire fallen off? Check the ignition switch. If nothing obvious turns up in a cursory check, look a little further. Learning to recognize and describe symptoms will make repairs easier for you or a mechanic at the shop.

Describe problems accurately and fully. Gather as many symptoms together as possible to aid in diagnosis. Note whether the engine lost power gradually or all at once, what color smoke if any came from the exhaust, and so on. Remember that the more complicated a machine is, the easier it is to troubleshoot because symptoms point to specific problems. You do not need fancy equipment or complicated test gear to determine whether repairs can be attempted at home.

On the other hand, be realistic and do not attempt repairs beyond your abilities. If one or more are missing, the engine will not run. The electrical system is the weakest link of the three. More problems result from electrical breakdowns than from any other source. Keep that in mind before you begin tampering with carburetor adjustments. If the snowmobile has been sitting for any. This includes the tank, fuel petcocks, lines, and the carburetor.

Rust may have formed in the tank, obstructing fuel flow. Gasoline deposits may have gummed up carburetor jets and air passages. Gasoline tends to lose its potency after standing for long periods. Condensation may contaminate it with water. Drain old gas and try starting with a fresh tankful.

Compression, or the lack of it, usually enters the picture only in the case of older machines. Worn or broken pistons, rings, and cylinder bores could prevent starting.

Generally a gradual power loss and harder and harder starting will be readily apparent in this case. Figures 1 through 4 illustrate operating principles of piston port engines. During this discussion, assume that the crankshaft is rotating counterclockwise. In Figure 1, as the piston travels downward, a transfer port A between the crankcase and the cylinder is uncovered. Exhaust gases leave the cylinder through the exhaust port B , which is also opened by downward movement of the piston.

Since the incoming charge is under pressure, it rushes into the cylinder quickly and helps to expel exhaust gases from the previous cycle. Figure 2 illustrates the next phase of the cycle. As the crankshaft continues to rotate, the piston moves upward, closing the exhaust and transfer ports. Notice also that a low pressure area is created in the crankcase by the ascending piston at the same time. Further upward movement of the piston uncovers the intake port D. The third phase is shown in Figure 3.

As the piston approaches top dead center, the spark plug fires, igniting the compressed mixture. The piston is then driven downward by the expanding gases.

When the top of the piston uncovers the exhaust port, the fourth phase begins, as shown in Figure 4. The exhaust gases leave the cylinder through the exhaust port. As the piston continues downward, the intake port is closed and the mixture in the crankcase is compressed in preparation for the next cycle.

Every downward stroke of the piston is a power stroke. Remove a spark plug. Connect the spark plug connector to the spark plug and clamp the base of spark plug to a good grounding point on the engine. A large all igator clip makes an ideal clamp. Position the spark plug so you can observe the electrode. Turn on the ignition and crank the engine over. A fat blue spark should be evident across the spark plug electrode.

Fouled or defective spark plugs Obstructed fuel filter or fuel line Defective fuel pump Leaking head gasket-perform compression test. If spark is not good, check for one or more of the following : a. Burned, pitted, or improperly gapped breaker points b. Weak ignition coil or condenser c. Loose electrical connections d. Defective COl components-have CD! More often than not, the problem is very minor and can be found with a simple and logical troubleshooting approach. The following items provide a beginning point from which to isolate engine starting problems.

Engine Fails to Start Perform the following spark test to determine if the ignition system is operating properly. Fouled spark plugs b. Improperly adjusted choke c. Defective or improperly adjusted breaker points d.

Contaminated fuel system e. Improperly adjusted carburetor f. Weak ignition coil g. Incorrect fuel mixture h. Crankcase drain plugs loose or missing i. Poor compression-perform compression test. Remove the spark plugs. Insert a compression gauge in one spark plug hole Figure 5. Refer to Chapter One for a suitable type of compression tester. The possible causes for each malfunction are listed in a logical sequence and in order of probability. Engine Will Not Idle. Carburetor incorrectly adjusted b.

Fouled or improperly gapped spark plugs c. Head gasket leaking-perform compression test. Fuel mixture incorrect e. Spark advance mechanism not retarding f. Obstructed fuel pump impulse tube g. Crankcase drain plugs loose or missing Engine Misses at High Speed.

Fouled or improperly gapped spark plugs b. Defective or improperly gapped breaker points c. Improper ignition timing d. Defective fuel pump e.

Improper carburetor high-speed adjustment Walbro Carburetor or improper main jet selection Mikuni Carburetor f. Obstructed fuel pump impulse tube h. Obstructed fuel filter Engine Overheating. Crank the engine vigorously and record compression reading. Repeat for other cylinder.

Compression readings should be from Maximum allowable variation between cylinders is If compression is low or variance between cylinder is excessive, check for defective head gaskets, damaged cylinders and pistons, or stuck piston rings. The following items are a starting point from which to isolate a performance malfunction. It is assumed the engine runs but is not operating at peak efficiency. Too lean fuel mixture-incorrect carburetor adjustment or jet selection b.

Improper ignition timing c. Incorrect spark plug heat range d. Intake system or crankcase air leak e. Cooling fan belt broken or slipping f. Cooling fan defective g. Damaged or blocked cooling fins Engine Smokes and Runs Rough. Carburetor adjusted incorrectly-mixture too rich b. Incorrect fuel! Choke not operating properly d. Obstructed muffler e. Water or other contaminates in fuel. Engine overheating c. Defective or improperly gapped breaker points d. Improper ignition timing e. Incorrectly gapped spark plugs f.

Obstructed muffler h. Dragging brake Engine Lacks Acceleration. Improper ignition timing f. Overheating is the major cause of serious and expensive engine failures. It is important that each snowmobile owner understand all the causes of engine overheating and take the necessary precautions to avoid expensive overheating damage. Proper preventive maintenance and careful attention to all potential problem areas can often prevent a serious malfunction before it happens.

Always use an approved oil and mix the fuel carefully as described in Chapter One. Fnell Air Mixture. Hood louvers plugged with snow b. Damaged or plugged cylinder and head cooling fins c. Slipping or broken fan belt d. Damaged cooling fan e. Operating snowmobile in hot weather f. Plugged or restricted exhaust system See Figures 6 and 7 for examples of cylinder and piston scuffing caused by excessive heat. Dirt is a potential problem for all snowmobiles. Tbe air intake silencers on all models are not designed to filter incoming air.

T iming that. Refer to Chapter Two for recommended spark plugs. The following items provide a starting point from wbicb to troublesboot electrical system malfunctions. The possible causes for eacb malfunction are listed in a logical sequence and in order of probability. Ignition system malfunctions are outlined under Engine Starting and Engine Performance.

Lights Will Not Light. See Figure 9 for an example of a melted and scuffed piston caused by pre-ignition. Detonation Knocking. Bulbs are burned out Loose electrical connections Defective switch Defective lighting coil or alternator Defective voltage regulator Defective battery electric-start models.

Defective battery Low electrolyte level Dirty or loose electrical connections Defective voltage regulator Defective lighting coil f. Defective rectifier g. Defective circuit breaker. Cracked Battery Case a. Discharged battery allowed to freeze b. Improperly installed hold-down clamp c. Loose electrical connections Discharged battery Defective starter solenoid Defective starter motor Defective circuit breaker Defective ignition switch.

Poor Starter Perfonnance a. Commutator or brushes worn, dirty, or oil soaked b. Binding armature c. Weak brush springs d. Also refer to Drive Belt Wear Analysis. Face of drive sheave is rough, grooved, pitted, or scored b. Defective drive belt. Misaligned drive and driven sheaves b. Loose engine mounts Glazed Drive Belt a. Excessive slippage b. Excessive slippage caused by stuck track b. Engine idle speed too fast b. Distance between sheaves incorrect c. Misaligned sheaves b.

Loosen engine mounting bolts Brake Not Holding Properly a. Incorrect brake cable adjustment Brake lining or pucks worn Oil saturated brake lining or pucks Sheared key on brake pulley or disc Incorrect brake adjustment. Brake Not Releasing Properly a. Weak or broken return spring b.

Bent or damaged brake lever c. Incorrect brake adjustment Leaking Chaincase a. Gaskets on driveshaft bearing flanges or secondary shaft bearing flanges damaged b. Damaged O-ring on driveshaft or secondary shaft c. Cracked or broken chaincase Rapid Chain and Sprocket Wear a. Insufficient chaincase oil b. Misaligned sprockets c. Broken chain tension blocks. A rapidly wearing drive belt with a frayed edge cord indicates the drive belt is misaligned see Figure Also check for loose engine mounting bolts.

Sheared cogs as shown in Figure 13 are usually caused by violent drive sheave engagement. This is an indication of a defective or improperly installed drive sheave. Worn Narrow in One Section. Excessive slippage due to a stuck track or too high an engine idle speed will cause the drive belt to be worn narrow in one section see. The following items provide a starting point from which to troubleshoot ski and steering malfunctions.

Belt Disintegration. Drive belt disintegration is usually caused by misalignment. Disintegration can also be caused by using an incorrect belt or oil or grease on sheave surfaces see Figure Skis misaligned b. Worn out ski wear rods Skags c. The following items provide a starting point from which to troubleshoot track assembly malfunctions.

The possible causes for each are listed in a logical sequence and in order of probability. Also refer to Track Wear Analysis. Frayed Track Edge. Excessively worn grouser bars are caused by snowmobile operation over rough and non-snow covered terrain such as gravel roads and highway roadsides Figure IS.

The following items illustrate typical examples. In all cases the damage could have been avoided by proper maintenance and good operator technique. Insufficient track tension is a major cause of ratcheting damage to the top of the lugs Figure Excessive track tension can cause too much friction on the wear bars. This friction causes the wear bars to melt and adhere to the track grouser bars. Loose Track Damage A track adjusted too loosely can cause the outer edge to flex excessively.

This results in the type of damage shown in Figure Excessive weight can also contribute to the damage. Impact Damage Impact damage as shown in Figure 20 causes. This frequently happens in more than one place. Impact damage is usually caused by riding on rough or frozen ground or ice. Also, insufficient track tension can allow the track to pound against the track stabilizers inside the tunnel. Edge Damage Edge damage as shown in Figure 21 is usually caused by tipping the snowmobile on its side to clear the track and allowing the track edge to contact an abrasive surface.

All Arctic Cat snowmobiles are powered with either 2- or single-cylinder 2-stroke engines except for those equipped with Wankel enginesnot covered in this manual. Refer to Table 1 to determine which engine is equipped with your machine. See Chapter Three for the Principles of Operation of 2-cycle piston-port engines. All Arctic Cat engines are equipped with ball-type main crankshaft bearings and needle bearings on both ends of the connecting rods.

On models, the crankshaft, lower end bearings, crank pins, connecting rods, in-. For models, the crankshaft components are available individually.

For all models and years, the outer bearings and seals are available separately. In all cases, however, it is recommended that lower end work be entrusted to a dealer; experience and special measuring equipment, along with a press, are required to service the lower end.

Engine removal and upper end disassembly are covered to reduce the cost of lower end service. An upper end overhaul is within the abilities of the average hobbyist mechanic equipped with a reasonable range of hand tools, and inside. The information they contain will contribute to the efficiency, effectiveness, and safety of your work.

Also, read the procedures in this chapter carefully and completely before picking up a wrench. It is also a good idea to physically compare the instructions with the actual machine beforehand to familiarize yourself with the procedure and the equipment. A complete upper end overhaul can be performed without removing the engine from the machine.

However, you may find it more convenient to have the engine on a workbench, and should a small part or tool or dirt fall into the crankcase, it is more easily removed if the engine can be inverted. For these reasons, en-. Exceptions are noted where they apply.

When measuring wear surfaces for critical dimensions, be sure to consult the appropriate tables for your engine. This holds true also for critical torque values. Remove the E-rings from the hood hinge pins, disconnect the hood cables, and remove the hood. Set it out of the way. Remove the handle from the recoil starter. Grasp the starter rope firmly and untie the safety knot that prevents it from passing through the dashboard.

Pull the rope through the dashboard and retie the knot to prevent the rope from being drawn all the way into the starter. Unscrew the bolts that attach the recoil starter assembly to the engine Figure 1 and collect the washers. Remove the starter ass embly and set it out of the way. Unplug the main engine wiring harness at the engine connector Figure 2.

Remove the belt guard, then remove the drive belt as described in Chapter Two, Drive Belt. For Mikuni carburetors, loosen the carburetor flange clamp Figure 3 and pull the carburetor out of the flange.

For Walbro carburetors, nnscrew the nuts that attach the carburetor to the manifold and collect the washers Figure 4. Loosen the clamp on the silencer connector and disconnect the carburetor. Set it out of the way, with the cables attached. Disconnect the fuel pump impulse line from the crankcase.

Place a piece of cardboard on the floor on the MAG side of the machine, and tile the snowmobile on its side. Unscrew the locknut from the rear motor mounts Figure 5. Set the machine upright and unscrew the locknuts from the front motor mounts. Collect the washers. II Disconnect the muffler from the exhaust manifold. Some models are fitted with a clip Figure 8 , and others use springs Figure 9. Unscrew the drive clutch bolt and collect the washer Figure 6.

On some models it is first necessary to remove the rubber plug from the belly pan to gain access to the bolt. Remove the drive clutch with the special Arctic puller. Unscrew the bolts that attach the engine plate to the engine Figure 10 and collect the washers. Set the engine plate assembly aside. Remove exterior components cooling shroud, coil, CD!

Remove spark plugs from cylinder head. Remove cylinder heads and gaskets. Remove cylinders. Remove pistons. On engines equipped with fan cooling, the cooling fan assembly and the shroud must be removed. First unscrew the bolts that attach the starting pulley Figure 12 and collect the washers.

Remove the starter and fan drive pulleys from the flywheel Figure Disengage the fan belt from the fan driven pulley. Unscrew the bolts that attach the fan housing assembly to the engine, collect the washers, and remove the fan assembly. Authorized dealers who have committed to provide excellent pre-sale and post-sale customer service and to uphold Yamaha standards.

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